Elegant Etiquette for a Taisho Roman Hot Spring Town

With the murmur of the river as background music, the evening gas lamps begin to cast a warm, orange glow. The wooden ryokan town, covered in gently falling snow, is filled with such a nostalgic atmosphere that you might feel as if you've time-slipped to Japan of 100 years ago. This is Ginzan Onsen, a hidden hot spring nestled in the mountains of Yamagata Prefecture.

The charm of this onsen town is not just its beauty. It holds the history of a silver mine, the culture of "Taisho Roman" — a blend of Japanese and Western styles that flourished in the Taisho era — and its identity as the setting for a story that touched the hearts of people worldwide.

This guide is here to help you not only to capture that perfect photograph but also to become a "constituent" of the unique atmosphere of this place. The beauty of Ginzan Onsen is a delicate work of art, created by its historic buildings, nature, and the conduct of every person who visits. The manners introduced here are not rules, but elegant promises to cherish this artwork together and to preserve and pass it on to the future.

Now, let's forget the hustle and bustle of daily life and prepare for a journey to a bygone good era. A special time that will light a warm glow in your heart awaits you.

Why did such a picturesque onsen town emerge deep in these mountains? The background lies in the rise and fall of a silver mine and the stories of people who embodied the spirit of their time.

The history of Ginzan Onsen, as its name suggests ("ginzan" means silver mine), begins with silver. Discovered in the Muromachi period, the "Nobesawa Silver Mine" was its origin, flourishing greatly in the early Edo period as a mine under the direct control of the shogunate. At that time, it was counted as one of Japan's three major silver mines, but eventually, silver production declined, and the mine closed. However, because the miners had discovered hot springs while digging for silver, it continued its history quietly as a "toji-ba" (a place for hot spring therapy).

The current landscape of the onsen town was formed from the Taisho era (1912-1926) to the early Showa era. The Taisho era was a time when a unique and glamorous culture called "Taisho Roman" was born, blending Western culture with Japanese tradition. In Ginzan Onsen, after a great flood devastated the town, the efforts of the local people led to the construction of ryokans (Japanese inns) with three or four-story wooden balcony architecture, which was modern for the time. This became the prototype of the onsen town that still fascinates us today.

A major catalyst for Ginzan Onsen becoming internationally known was the 1983 Japanese television drama "Oshin," which became popular in over 60 countries. This onsen town was used as the location for the moving scene where the protagonist, Oshin, reunites with her mother. Oshin's image, thinking of her mother amidst the snowy landscape, combined with the nostalgic scenery of the onsen town, was deeply engraved in many people's hearts as a quintessential Japanese landscape.

In Ginzan Onsen, strict ordinances are in place to protect the precious Taisho-era landscape. Even when constructing new buildings, they are required to have designs that blend in with the surrounding scenery. In recent years, cafes and souvenir shops renovated from vacant houses have increased, expanding the pleasures of strolling. Furthermore, to maintain the scenery while providing a more comfortable stay, each ryokan is also modernizing its interior, aiming for a fusion of tradition and comfort.

Because it's a compact onsen town, prior information gathering can make a huge difference in the quality of your trip.

• Shinkansen + Bus (Recommended Route): From Tokyo Station, take the Yamagata Shinkansen to "Oishida Station" (approx. 3 hours 20 mins). From Oishida Station, take the local bus "Ginzan Hanagasa-go" and get off at the final stop, "Ginzan Onsen" (approx. 40 mins).
• From Yamagata Airport: Using the reservation-based shared taxi "Oishii Yamagata Airport Kanko Liner" is convenient.
• Note: The bus from Oishida Station has limited services. Be sure to check the Shinkansen arrival times and bus departure times in advance and plan accordingly.

• Photo Spots: The path leading from the entrance of the onsen town to the back, the red bridges, and the view overlooking the entire town from a ryokan window are all picturesque.
• Warashi-yu Footbath: A free public footbath located in the center of the town. It's perfect for warming up your cold feet from strolling. Don't forget to bring a towel.
• Day-Use Onsen: There are public baths and ryokans that accept day-use visitors. However, hours are limited, so it's good manners to check their availability in advance.

• Clothing: Winter in Ginzan Onsen is very cold with heavy snowfall. Full winter protection is necessary. Especially for footwear, non-slip, waterproof snow boots are essential. Hand warmers and other cold-weather gear are also helpful.
• Vehicle Restrictions: During winter (around December to March), the onsen town is closed to general vehicle traffic for safety reasons. It is very important to check the official Ginzan Onsen website or each ryokan’s website in advance for details and the latest information.
  
  

The magical atmosphere of Ginzan Onsen is protected by the behavior of every single visitor.

At the back of the onsen town is the 22-meter high "Shirogane Falls," whose powerful appearance contrasts with the calm atmosphere of the town. Further on, there are the remains of the "Nobesawa Silver Mine" adit, a small part of which can be explored. A walk tracing the roots of Ginzan Onsen is also a delight.

To fully appreciate the charm of Ginzan Onsen, an overnight stay is recommended. You can have the fantastical scenery of the quiet night, with only the light of the gas lamps illuminating the snow, all to yourself. Furthermore, the ryokan's cuisine, which makes lavish use of local seasonal ingredients, will become the best memory of your trip.

• Morning: Take the train and bus from Yamagata Station via Oishida Station to Ginzan Onsen.
• Noon: Upon arrival, have a lunch of specialty soba noodles at a restaurant in the town.
• Afternoon: Stroll through the onsen town. Soak your feet in a footbath, eat curry bread. Taking a bath in a public bathhouse is also a good idea.
• Evening: Burn the magical twilight scenery with the lit gas lamps into your memory, and take the bus to Oishida Station.

• Day 1:
  〇 Around 15:00: Check into the ryokan. Drop off your luggage and change into a yukata.
  〇 Evening: Stroll through the onsen town before sunset. Walk up to Shirogane Falls.
  〇 18:00: Return to the ryokan for dinner.
  〇 Night: Stroll again through the fantastically glowing, gas-lit onsen town. Later, warm up thoroughly in the ryokan's onsen.

• Day 2:
  〇 Morning: Take a walk in the quiet morning onsen town before breakfast.
  〇 Forenoon: Spend time at the ryokan until check-out, or go out to look for souvenirs.
  〇 Around Noon: Head to Oishida Station by bus and begin your journey home.
  
  

What you take home from your trip to Ginzan Onsen should not be just beautiful photos or delicious souvenirs. It should be a warm and gentle memory that resides in your heart, like the soft glow of a gas lamp on a snowy night.

The magical atmosphere of this place is created not only by its history and buildings but also by the quiet consideration of every visitor who thinks, "I want to cherish this beautiful scenery." If you join this circle of consideration, the light of Ginzan Onsen will surely continue to illuminate the hearts of travelers forever.